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SideWinder, Interceptor, & Assassin
Setup Sheet
Castor Adjustment:
Castor is adjusted by rotating the castor yoke forward or back. To adjust the castor you must first loosen the four 5/16” bolts securing the yoke. Do not remove the bolts; just loosen them enough to move the yoke. Rotating the yoke toward the back of the kart will add castor, rotating it forward will decrease castor.
The castor yoke is considered centered when the inspection line on the yoke lines up with the middle center punched line on the chassis. The engine side castor is set to 10 when centered. The brake side castor is set to 8 when centered.
Each line on the plate represents a 2 degree change. Most of the time you will not need to move the yolk more than 2 lines; a 4 degree change. It is not uncommon to increase castor on one side and decrease castor on the other side to get the kart to handle the way you want it to. Adjusting castor will not affect toe as the yolks are welded perfectly square to the rear axle.
Camber Adjustment:
The kingpin bolt is installed with the nut on top of the yoke. The camber adjustment plate is located below the kingpin nut and washer. There are 5 camber adjustment plates. The stock plate (0 degree) installed at the factory, retains the factory camber setting of approximately 1/2 degree up on both sides. We include the 1degree and 2 degree top plates with the kart, which are stamped respectively with either a 1 or 2.
The 1 and 2 top plates will set the camber either negative or positive, depending on how they are installed. Negative camber tips the tire in at the top and positive tips it out. The amount you tip the spindle will be determined by the racing you will do.
Sticky tracks need more negative on the right and positive on the left. Loose tracks will sometimes require a little positive on the right and straight or a little negative on the left.
To adjust the camber, remove the 3/8” nut & washer and take the stock plate off. Be sure to hold onto the kingpin bolt during the plate change. Install the 1 plate (or the plate you want). Installing the plate with the “1” to the outside of the kart will give you negative camber. Installing the plate with the “1” toward the inside of the kart will give you positive camber. Installing the other plates is the same procedure, they will just add more or less change.
The karts have a 8 degree RH spindle which with the stock camber plate equals -2 (negative 2) camber. A 2 degree plate installed positive ( “2” toward kart) will give you -0 (negative 0) camber. You can achieve -4 camber by installing the 2 plate negatively (“2” away from kart). We always use negative camber on the right side of the kart.
We offer 10 degree RH spindles if you need positive camber. You can then adjust it positive or negative 2 like the left side. We have not found an instance where positive camber on the right was better than negative, but we do offer the option.
There is only .005 of slop in the bolt and camber plate which is less than a 1/2 variance. Pulling up on the end of the spindle bolt during assembly will take up this slop and if done during each change, will add consistency to the adjustment.
Adjusting camber will not affect toe in due to the design of our camber adjustment system. Cross weights will be affected by camber adjustment.
Cross Weight:
The cross weight will be affected by camber and rear torsion bar adjustments. We suggest scaling the kart with the torsion bar off, installed flat and installed at 45 degrees. You will see a difference with each setup. Use this information to adjust the kart to suit the driver.
Stagger:
We typically run 3/4” to 1 1/4” RF and 1/2” to 1 1/4” RR stagger. Trial and error will tell you what stagger you will need to run.
Scaling:
The front weight should be 44.5% to 46% of total kart weight. The left side weight should be 55% to 57.5% of total weight. Cross weight should be 55% to 60%, measured RF to LR.
Tires & Wheels:
Use a 710 or 800 on the RF, and the wheel width you need to make the stagger correct. Run the RF wheel as close to the spindle arm as possible. Run the LF wheel out about two spacers max from the narrowest setting. The RR tire should be set about 1” maximum from the frame rail itself. Depending on the size wheels you use. The RR tire may need to be moved out to square up with the front tire. The LR tire should be set 3” from the frame rail. The position of the LR tire is sometimes inside of the LF tire.
We recommend selecting the inside tires based on the stagger you need. Most of the time we use 500 or 550 size tires on the inside. Some softer, lower grip tracks will use Burris tires which are a little larger in diameter and width.
Seat:
The seat cannot extend past the halfway point of the axle. Try to install the seat as close to the middle of the axle as it can be. The center of the seat should be lined up with the middle of the brake disc or slightly to the right. The brake caliper is mounted behind the axle which allows for a lower seat position. Install the seat flush with the bottom of the frame or slightly above. Do not mount the seat below the frame.
Bodywork:
Mount the bodywork so it will not restrict frame flex. We use Renegade (CMS) bodywork which are very lightweight. They come in several colors and are also paintable.
Rear Height:
Coyote Karts come with adjustable rear ride height. The rear can be adjusted up to 1” in quarter inch increments to lower the rear of the chassis. This allows the use of larger circumference tires, while retaining frame to ground clearance.
The brake caliper is mounted to the axle cassette. This keeps the caliper aligned with the brake disc when the axle height is changed. You can adjust one side lower than the other, giving you axle wedge while maintaining brake alignment.
Adjustable Cassette:
Our adjustable cassette (if equipped) can be installed both RH and LH giving you either ride height or lead (wheel base) or better yet both if you have one installed on both sides. 1 line equals .050 of adjustment.
Setup Diagrams:
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